We’ve been very lucky to visit Marrakech at the end of tourist season and during Ramadan when things are noticeably calm. The rhythm of life is so unique – sometimes woken up by the call to prayer at 5:30 prior to one’s last meal before sunrise. At sunrise, 6:30, the birds gathered in the lush greenery of our Riadh start chirping… I’ve been out for a run not long after this and very few people are stirring. Shops don’t open till 10 or 11… then things slow to a crawl during the heat of the day at 1ish. Normally many shops close for Siesta… during Ramadan, they stay open and then close early as sunset and f’tou (break fast) approaches. However, all afternoon everyone is crabby as they haven’t had anything to eat, drink or smoke. This makes lunch a funny affair… you don’t have to worry about trying to eat at the places the Moroccans eat… since they don’t all month.
The tourists, unused to the schedule, crowd the restaurants in the Medina at 7:00 when they open. At 7:45 everything is suspended while the faithful have f’tou – usually crepes and a lentil soup. Then call to prayer is at 8:45 and by 9:30 everybody’s ready to socialize and have fun. There’s a well kept little triangle park at the end of our street in the modern district, across from the Oliverie where all the twenty somethings gather on their scooters and picnic and hang out. Then at around midnight and again at two, there are sporadic celebrations of wild dogs
The city retains so many elements of being a trading post – the old city is proudly surrounded by tall city walls (which still serve a purpose in command and control as there are surveillance cameras mounted on the lightposts at the gates), the rabit warren of streets, the vendors, hucksters, grifters everywhere, no zoning and little building inspection. It’s clearly the model for Mos Eisley. The Moroccans are friendly, outgoing and industrious. Pull out a map, stop briefly and someone will offer to point how to get where you’re going… and offer a visit to their shop – the rest of the shops they buy their goods from China, but his shop is good Moroccan handmade goods. I don’t know how the non-former-New Yorkers do it. We met a German family at a cafe who was a dispirited and abused by their experience in Marrakech – and between them they had 20 visible biker tattoos. Lessons learned – when someone asks you if you are looking for the museum/restaurant/etc. and tells you it’s closed – 50% chance it’s actually closed – 50% chance its an opportunity to show you a spice store. When someone tells you, I am not a guide I’m just helping, they’re most likely trying to guide you some place.
We got good enough at tuning out the noise that we finally got cursed out by a young shopkeeper who asked us who we think we are to be so rude to decline his help. It’s okay, people get testy at around 6:00pm after not eating all day in the 90 degree heat. We won’t let a few bad apples spoil the barrel, and I’m sure they won’t judge us by not our most considerate moments.
At the same time that there is this trading post mentality, there’s also a sense of order that seems to be a blend of islamic discipline and french fussiness. The shopkeepers water down and sweep the cracked paving stones in front of their shops. Nobody eats or smokes standing up on the street – even after sunset – or drinks a beverage from the bottle. Traffic is a little chaotic but still orderly and safe. Everyone respects women and the elderly. When somene serves you tea, and everyone serves you tea, you’re under no obligation… it’s just what is done. There are sidewalks and parks and trees and everyone takes some pride in them even if they are falling apart here and there and fixing them by hand and with donkey carts takes some time.
All this said, we’re looking forward to our next stop, Barcelona… where we’ll be charged more as a tourist, but that upcharge will be non-negotiable.
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Need to talk to you folks about the Morocco leg of the trip. It’s next up for us.
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